Hold your fire: believe it or not, El Paso was recently named one of the country’s safest cities. Now there’s no reason to avoid this unexpectedly charming West Texas metropolis—especially for those intrigued by a region’s distinctive heritage and food. Even if you’re not a history buff, the mission trail offers a fascinating glimpse into the area’s Spanish colonial past, with three extraordinary adobe missions dating to the 1600s.

Food-wise, El Paso is the Mecca for my favorite Mexican dish: chile rellenos, prepared with velvety white cheese encased in a tangy and lightly breaded anaheim pepper. One of the most memorable places to experience this regional delicacy is at H&H Car Wash, an actual car wash with a tiny restaurant inside offering the tantalizingly smooth yet spicy chiles heated on the same grill as the tasty (and greasy) burgers.

Another area worth exploring in El Paso is Segundo Barrio, a resurgent neighborhood near downtown filled with historic adobe homes and charming corner stores. Be sure to experience Bowie Bakery’s traditional Mexican pastries: empanadas de pina (delectable pineapple turnovers), esponjas, and a cream-filled swan pastry that tastes as sweet as it looks.